Tarpon Bay
sits on the back side of Sanibel, at the eastern end of the big wildlife
refuge, with just one tiny, putative opening onto the Pine Island Sound.
That's what you see from a kayak, anyway. The mangroves that ring
the Bay are so think, at high tide they make an emerald wall that merges with
the water, and the barrier island is impregnable. Existentially
indifferent to our peripeteia. That appearance of solidity, however, isn't the
whole truth. The atom is like that, people have told me. The little building
block of all this..."matter," I suppose, is what we are supposed to
call it...is somehow ninety-nine percent nothing, an illusion of substance
based on motion and electrical charges, instead. When you come close to
the emerald wall, gliding silently, paddle held-up in a reverent hush, the
little eddy from your last stroke barely visible now, a slight dimple in
the surface some ten feet behind the kayak, and perhaps a drop falling silently
off the very tip of the paddle blade, you see that there are breaks. The
emerald wall causes optical illusions, befuddling already sun-squeezed eyes,
where there are certain passages, backward bending at first, that lead
into the forest.
Some years
ago, I found a channel, obscured from the Bay. You have to lay your
paddle flat against the length of the kayak, and use your hands to pull-through
a few mangrove branches that are slowly, but inexorably,
stepping down into the water. The mangroves yield as you pass in.
A ten foot width of light and blue sky swim parallel to your course,
above the channel, and looking to left and right you see now not
the emerald wall, but instead miles of forking branches and trunks in the
airspace underneath the canopy. About fifty meters on, the creek opens
into a circular space, maybe five kayaks in diameter.
A few months
ago, my husband and I were there. The tidal flow was in fevered run back
to the Bay, and thence to the Gulf. We got out to stand in the ankle-deep
water, as clear and swift as any mountain river that plunges over
granite steps, and rushes in corrugated agitation over the shallows of rounded
rock. The water ran like a trout river, but in the mangroves there is no
upstream or downstream, the force of the flow isn't contained, isn't
channelled, can't be comprehended by your eyes that way. It's
fully directional; from one side of you, to the other. And, it
emerges from under and through the mangroves, shaking their roots and branches,
and transmitting that vibration up into the emerald, and goes out through
the other side of the lake-like clearing. That motion is underneath you,
pushing on your legs, making current turbulence around the place where you
stand, but there isn't a visual paradigm for interpreting the teleology of all
those millions of gallons of moving water. You can't see a source or a
destination. There is only fast running water, and the enormity of its
volume is riveting. Our kayak was pushed away, pinned against the trees
at the Bay side of the lake-circle. Minnow swarms came and went, no
possibility of fighting the tide, in glinting bursts like someone
had dumped a can of craft sparkles at your feet in the shower.
Intellectually, I always knew that the mangroves aren't exactly growing
on the land, or in the sea. But for the first time I really felt that.
Understood it. The mangroves are some kind of missing link in
geology, an intermediate form between the solid and liquid parts that jostle
for space on our globe. And being there, you can see some kind of
critical phase transition, be at the cliff effect of change. I will
always love that place.